03 Jan It’s a wrap….for now :)
I have put off writing the final blog post from our Part 3 for quite some time, because it fills me with some sadness to acknowledge post adventure antics and I wonder “have I said everything I’ve wanted to”? Will the words flow, when some time as passed since we returned. I held off summing up the last few most glorious days, because some joyous life events got thrown in to our journey, mixed with some truly sad moments. It happens for us all. I know. For me, it seems to put a halt to any ounce of creative inspiration I can find swirling around this official “mature” brain. I like “mature” better than some other options that exist for my current age bracket.
For now I’ll get you caught up on our time in Canada.
Polly’s Cove, a stones throw (2km) from Peggy’s Cove, gave us a chance to get off our bums and do some hiking. This unmarked, but well worn path, suggested by locals was just wonderful. Walking on top of bluffs overlooking the ocean. I’m gonna blame my short legs (and not a fear of falling) that kept me off the more aggressive areas that Dave’s long legs allowed him to venture on. If you know Dave, you know that if it’s there, whatever “it” may be, Dave must go. So when Dave must go (a little further than me) I am almost always happy to plop my self down and soak up nature. Good for the soul for us both.
Hiking at Polly’s Cove
We made some stops at some local places, including the Finer Diner on a cove with an amazing view and a general store with just about anything you need. Our unprofessional observation about the peoples of Canada. Not necessarily gushy or overt in their enthusiasm at first in meeting us tourists from the US, but once you break that veil of reservation, they generally warm up and are as nice as can be. That is a win win for me.
Next day provided a chance to just be. There was lots of rain! “Be” meaning laundry, bills, FaceTime with kids, minor repair around CR.
Waiting to cross onto Cape Breton
Campsite at Whycocomagh Provincial Park Cape Breton NS
It was time to leave this sweet spot and push on to Whycocomagh Provincial Park on Cape Breton. This was about a 336km drive. When we arrived at this “provincial” park, aka state park, we had trouble with the power at our site. The only registration area included a phone to contact someone with any issues. When I called, the person I spoke with told us there was no one on site that could help and did we want a refund? Oh and we couldn’t stay if we received the refund. To which I shared that we had no other place available to us at that moment other than where we were. While I was back and forth and back and forth more with this “help desk person” Dave drove over to a building nearby, found someone who came over right away and helped resolve our power problem. Hmmm. They clearly have a disconnect they need to work on.
Up early the next morning to travel the Cabot Trail, which with no stopping would be a 4.5 hour drive. We stopped, lots, and so glad we did. The Cabot Trail is possibly one of the most beautiful and scenic 298 km drives we have ever travelled. After breakfast at the Duck Cove Inn with magical views of the Magaree River, we set off to explore the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Here it is the height of the summer and the entrance to a National Park is empty. Unlike anything we had experienced touring the parks in the US. We drove in awe. We were like kids excited to see a momma moose with her baby along the way. A lunch stop at the Chowder House at Neils Harbour was sweet. We hiked in awe. Our favorite hike of the day, the Jack Pine Trail, hit every scenic joy for us. Mountains, to ocean bluff, to meadow. Just perfect. And hardly any humans.
The famous binky tree along the Jack Pine Trail
We calculated that we drove about 350 KM in total this day. Seemed fitting to finish with a stop at the Big Spruce Brewery not too far from our campsite. As I pondered getting a 5 oz shandy, this big guy sitting at the bar looks over at me and says “Go Big or Go Home”, with a big ‘ol smile on his face. I went big! A pint for me.
Last full day on Cape Breton, we headed to Glenora Distillery in Mabou NS. They are North America’s first single malt distillery. We learned this! – single malt whisky is very expensive, and Japan, China and Russia are buying up big distilleries. We did get to sample a 10 year old scotch. My conclusion is… considering we choose not to buy anything in their gift shop as souvenirs or gifts, its safe to assume we will not become single malt drinkers anytime soon :).
Just remembering all of this adventure as I write puts such a smile on my face because it was that awesome!
Another early start as we left Cape Breton and headed to Prince Edward Island (P.E.I.). We headed out early because we wanted to catch the ferry from Caribou NS at a certain time slot. We arrived to be the second camper in line and about a 30 minute wait. The crossing was easy and relaxing for the hour we traveled. And no charge this direction. Yeah for us!
CR relaxing on the ferry crossing
We arrived at what turned out to be one of our favorite campgrounds so far. Cavendish Campground at Prince Edward Island National Park. As Labour Day (Canadian style) was right around the corner, the place was busy. The site we had booked would have been a challenge for many. This didn’t deter Dave one bit. Although it took a bit of maneuvering to get CR in place, in place Dave got CR. And a spot we really liked. Enough to add another night after only an hour of being there.
The beach which sits on the Gulf of Saint Laurence was BREATHTAKING. Notice the capital letters? After a walk on said beach, we ended with a fantastic dinner at the Blue Mussel Restaurant in North Rustico Harbour. Our first sample of the famous P.E.I. mussel. Not to be our last. Delicious.
It was during dinner this evening that Dave commented that we as a couple really love being near water. That our experiences with our dear friends Tony and Eileen out in Montauk so many years ago had such a wonderful influence in both our hearts. We are forever grateful!
With well over 50 km of hiking trails we had many great choices. And more mussels to be eaten. And potatoes. And more quiet beach to sit on and swim and walk. So we came to a most welcome decision. We were only supposed to be here on P.E.I. for a few days and then head to Old Quebec City where we had reservations. In the scheme of life decisions that people need to make, this was not a big one. But for us…people who often like to check off having seen and done much, we relished the idea of staying on the beautiful island of Prince Edward and explore more. We found we could stay at this campground if we were willing to move to another site. We were and we did. Reservations cancelled in Quebec. More time on P.E.I. CR would be moved to another site. Man we were happy!
Since we extended our time on P.E.I., we had the chance to head to the capital, Charlottetown, about an hours drive from Cavendish. So enjoyed strolling around this wharf city. The Celtic influences here are wonderful, from music to fashion and folk.
Are there bears on P.E.I. Hedy asks Dave 🙂
Watching Dave fix beach umbrella
There was more hiking and more beach time. Really feels like I’m writing about lifestyles of the rich and famous. Except we are neither. Just blessed beyond measure to have had this opportunity to soak in, with great abundance, the things that we love to do.
Both of us had been a bit anxious over moving CR from the super tight site to the wide open site we were headed to next. It was a flawless venture. This site was ample for CR yet had a very private feel to it. Was the perfect spot for us. After we settled in again, we headed back to Charlottetown for a show at a local theatre. The show was titled “Stories from the Red Dirt Road”. The music and storyline were fantastic! Four interwoven stories focused on a quilt theme with each quilt having a story about a native P.E.I. soul. Google red dirt and P.E.I. and you’ll understand why Red Dirt is in the title. A quick moonlit beach walk ended our day.
Hike, mussels, potatoes, beach…repeat.
Drove about the island some more. Robins Island, Brackley Beach, The Great Canadian Soap Company, Beavertails (decedent desserts), Ceilidh music by Dunworkin’, MacKenzies Brook, stunning landscapes and more mussels by Dave. Fire and peace :).
Our final day brought us to the Anne of Green Gables Homestead, the fictional home of the character of Anne brought to life by L.M. Montgomery, who was raised in Cavendish by her grandparents. Cavendish, and P.E.I. for that matter, are all things “Anne of Green Gables”. If loving this book is your thing, put Cavendish on your wish list.
Anne of Green Gables Homestead
Hiking thru grounds at Anne of Green Gables
We shoved in another trip to the beach. Ok no shoving…just had to go. Beach was calling.
The alarm went off at 5am the day we left P.E.I. It’s safe to say we were both a little sad leaving this place. Out by 6 am for an almost 6 hour drive. Remember the ferry being free to get into P.E.I. Well, to get off of P.E.I. we had to take the Confederation Bridge (12.9 km long) which cost $63 Canadian. A bit steep. Our waitress from the evening prior had mentioned that it’s rare she leaves the island because of how pricey the crossings are. We can see why.
Border crossing from Canada into Maine
Border crossing an hour later back into Canada
The new destination as we headed towards home was now Herring Cove Provincial Park on Campobello Island, New Brunswick CA. In order to do this we had to leave Canada and go through customs into Maine. Our lemons and lime were confiscated. Then about an hour later we hit customs from Maine back into Canada. When a bucket list item (for Dave) is right there at your finger tips, you must go.
Tides in at Head Harbour Light Station
After we set up camp, we explored a little and ended up at the Head Harbour Light Station. Nestled between the Bay of Fundy and Passamaquoddy Bay. Here you can only visit during low tide. If you get stuck at the light house during high tide you have to wait 8 hours for the tide to recede again. Waters are impassable otherwise. We were thrilled to be able to see whales and dolphins from this location.
Jocelyn our FUN tour guide at Campobello
The reason Campobello Island was important is that Dave is a huge FDR fan and this island compound was FDR’s family’s summer playground. Official name is the Roosevelt Campobello International Park. It is the only park in the world run by two countries. The US and Canada. It was made possible by the efforts of Eleanor Roosevelt, JFK and Senator Edmund Muskie. There will never be a fee to enter this park. Stipulation made by the above mentioned 3 people. The island is also where FDR was stricken with polio. The home, the tours we took, the vistas we saw were all just beautiful. Too many facts that I could get lost gushing over here. Check out http://www.fdr.net/ if you are a history geek and would love to learn more.
The evening ended as we hoped. We used up our very last Canadian dollars on groceries at the only store on the island, to make dinner at CR and then rode down to Herring Cove and enjoyed a whale and seal sightings.
Our final day in Canada came to a close as we headed back into Maine at one more border crossing.
We stayed two nights Scarborough ME so we could explore Portland for a day. Neither of us had ever been. It was a hopping and fun city to see. Lots of restaurants, stores, and of course water. Our day here included some sushi and ramen, some beer and a showing of the Winnie the Pooh movie back near the campground. Just an all round good day.
Our final night on our Part 3 was a stop at a Walmart campground in Danbury Ct. We like to go big when we can. Other than a busy parking lot and a good burger at Wayback Burgers, the day was one of travel and gas and restroom stops.
Then we cranked it home to Delaware. The day home was gray and rainy. We had a few of those at our beginnings and endings. The rainy day was met with a sweet end as new friends Shane and Jessica had dinner for us after our long day of travel. Grateful!
US and CANADA cut from a piece of leather from my dad, created by Dave
So this brings to close our year adventure. Thanks for taking the journey with us. Still working on the “what’s next” of life thing. Such as making roots here in DE, whatever that may look like. It’s hard to sum up a dream that became a reality. We found so many things on this journey. We found two beautiful countries. We found awesome people. We are confident in how much we like being with one another. A year plus of 24/7 with your significant other will either confirm or derail this notion. We can check off success in that area. We both drew closer to God than ever before. We felt God in places that His amazing beauty is revealed over and over again. We don’t take for granted for one moment what this has meant to both of us. All the friends and family who opened their homes and driveways and hearts to us filled us overflowing. We are thankful to each one of you!
If you can, we would appreciate feedback either here or on Facebook/Instagram on how you felt about this blog. If life should take us back on the road, we’d want to know if writing this was truly something others enjoyed reading. I know I’ve enjoyed writing when I wasn’t stressing over writing. You know….
Back at our favorite beach, Cape Henlopen State Park, DE
With much love and gratitude and a Happy New Year to all, we sign off for now..Dave and Hedy
For Us, It’s Not Abad Day 🙂